Wednesday, August 27, 2014Embroidery's Voice and Vision

- EMBROIDERY GLOSSARY

The embroidery glossary’s back, and better than ever. We’ve added some new terms and will also give you the lowdown on the different synthetic and eco-friendly fabrics, and a short list of apparel suppliers’ own unique terms to describe their garments’ particular performance attributes.

Sections: A - B C - D E - F G - L M - Pe Ph - R S - Sti Sto - To Tr - Z
Aetzing:
The process used to create schiffli laces. The base fabric is dissolved, leaving the threads that have been stitched together to form the lace.
Anti-Pilling:
A treatment applied to the garment to prevent pilling, or the formation of little balls of fabric due to wear.
Appliqué:
1) Decoration or trim cut from one piece of fabric and stitched to another to add dimension and texture. If appliqué occupies a significant amount of the design, the stitch count is lower.
2) In schiffli embroidery, an embroidered motif, hand cut or aetzed away from the base fabric.
Automatic Color Change:
The ability of a multi-needle commercial embroidery machine to follow a command to change to another specified needle with a different thread color.
Backing:
Woven or nonwoven material used underneath the item or fabric being embroidered to provide support and stability. Can be hooped with the item or placed between the machine and throat plate and the hooped garment. Available in various weights and in two basic types – cutaway and tearaway.
Balboa Stitch:
A technique used to produce tone-on-tone designs that feature the actual stitches as a background and give the fabric prominence. Has an embossed appearance.
Bean Stitch:
Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining, because it eliminates the need for repeatedly digitizing a single-ply run stitch outline.
Birdnesting:
Collection of thread between goods and needle plate, resembling a bird’s nest. Formation of a bird’s nest prevents free movement of goods and may be caused by inadequate tensioning of the top thread, top thread not following thread path correctly or flagging goods.
Blatt Stitch:
Schiffli term meaning “to feed the yarn,” therefore producing a long zigzag stitch with threads lying close together. Adapted for multi-head use; see Satin Stitch.
Blending:
A digitizing technique that makes different colors of thread flow together in a more pleasing manner. Relies heavily on variable densities. Gives a design a more realistic, 3-D look.
Bobbin:
Spool or reel that holds the bobbin thread, which helps form stitches on the underside of the fabric.
Bobbin Case:
Small, round metal device for holding the bobbin. Used to tension the bobbin thread. Inserted in the hook for sewing.
Bonnaz:
Chain-stitch machine developed in the 1800s. Named for its French inventor, Emile Bonnaz, and first manufactured by the Cornely Co. of France.
Boring:
Openwork incorporated into embroidered designs; a sharp-pointed instrument punctures, or bores, the fabric, and stitches are made around the opening to enclose the raw edges.
Buckram:
Coarse, woven fabric stiffened with glue, used to stabilize fabric for stitching. Commonly used in caps to hold the front panel erect.
Sections: A - B C - D E - F G - L M - Pe Ph - R S - Sti Sto - To Tr - Z

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