Look Book
Your guide to what's hot, new and now
By Joan Chaykin
These images are the work of Samanta Cortes, CEO of Fashion Design Concepts. They illustrate the latest in fashion design embroidery and embellishments.
FASHION FOCUS:
Designer Trends
When it comes to keeping up with fashion trends, Samanta Cortes is always on the cutting edge. As CEO, Cortes developed Fashion Design Concepts, a company that specializes in assisting private and corporate designers in the development of embroidered and beaded prototypes.
The New York City-based company’s clients include some of the most prestigious apparel and home furnishings firms in the U.S. Cortes is well-known in the embroidery and embellishment business and is a member of the Color Association of the United States and a board member of Fashion News Workshop, a group of fashion industry professionals. Stitches asked Cortes to give us some trends that decorators may want to keep in mind for fall 2009 projects.
1. CONCEPTUAL CONSTRUCTION. Concrete lines and geometric shapes introduce a new structural design phenomenon. Combining your embroidery motifs with origami-inspired folds will add dimensional interest and modern movement. Embroidery placed on pleated fabric will flatten the pleats and lend the illusion of movement. Mashing pleated fabric creates an added dimension when tucked and pulled from its original form.
2. DIMENSIONAL FLAIR. Quilting, appliqué and 3-D texture update feminine floral and fancy adornments. With the addition of foam between two fabrics of your design, you can achieve a very unique effect. Tacking additional elements to your embroidery designs can enhance the textual effects.
3. WILD BEAUTY. Bird feathers and animal skins inspire lively iridescence and plush embellishments. Attach feathers to your design for a unique dimensional effect. Animal skin patterns are simulated via stitches or appliquéd on your pieces utilizing the natural colors of the animals, or adding shimmer through the use of metallic thread.
4. AWARDS GLITZ. The Oscars’ red-carpet flair inspires glamorous beading and intricate embroidery. The use of sparkling metallic threads featuring an array of colors will add exquisite and unique detail to your embroidery designs. Creating a cluster of petite French dots will simulate the look of luxury.
THREAD TRENDS:
Metallic
Metallic thread, like these Yenmet threads from Amann USA, is a hot trend now in the fashion world. (Image courtesy of Buzz Design Studios.)
You can add shimmer and sparkle to an embroidered piece with metallic thread. Though advances have made it easier to work with these threads, it's important to consider some of the following points when working with metallics.
"Slowing the machine speed down a bit (700-750 stitches per minute is a good option) will yield the cleanest results," says Scott Adcock, creative director for Buzz Design Studios, who represents Yenmet metallic threads from Amann USA. "Also, using a needle with a larger eye will help ensure that the foil outer layers of a typical metallic thread don't snag and separate from the thread core. A DB x K5 type needle in a size of 75/11 to 80/12 has a larger eye in relation to other needle systems. Thread tensions should be set so that very little tension is applied when pulling the thread through the machine path. Stitch lengths less than 3mm should be avoided for optimum results."
When it comes to laundering, Adcock says Yenmet thread doesn't require any more special considerations than other embroidery threads. "However, you should avoid heavy bleaching agents and industrial processes, as these can be unpredictable," he cautions. "In addition, contact with acids, sulfur, active chlorine, saltwater or heavy perspiration in combination with long exposure to direct sunlight should be avoided."
ON THE ART SIDE:
Chinese Embroidery
Sichuan Airlines flight attendants in embroidered Chinese cheongsam uniforms during a function at a hotel in Tianjing, China, June 22, 2009. (Photo by Yu Ping/ChinaFotoPress/Getty Images)
The art of embroidery has its roots in China. Ancient remnants have been discovered over the centuries, such as the 2,400-year-old embroidered piece found in a Chu tomb cave. The Silk Road, the famed route of trade between China and the West, was established during the ancient Han Dynasty (206 B.C.-A.D. 220) and brought the exquisite artistry of Chinese embroidery to the world.
The four styles of Chinese embroidery are Xiang, Yue, Shu and Suzhou or Su. Decorated items include everything from everyday items and home décor to expensive costumes and works of art. There are two main divisions of Chinese embroidery, according to www.Asia-art.net: the long and short stitch of "chih wen" and the seed stitch called "tuan chen". The stitches most commonly used by the Chinese include satin stitch; Beijing stitch or French knot; stem stitch; couching; chain stitch; and split stitch. Popular designs include dragons, phoenixes, cats, birds and flowers.
In women's wear, one of the most recognizable Chinese traditional outfits is the cheongsam, which is a form-fitting dress with a Mandarin collar. The older styles were looser and long with a slit skirt, but today there are knee-length styles.
In recent news, the Chinese Sichuan Airlines announced the first aircraft assembled in China. Featured in the article were photos of the Airbus' flight attendants in elaborately embroidered cheongsam uniforms. Other Chinese airline attendants also wear traditional embroidered uniforms. And who can forget the colorfully embroidered costumes and uniforms worn in last year's summer Olympics?
With the growth of Asian-influenced designs in home interiors, consider adding some embroidered Chinese symbols on throw pillows, blankets, sheets, tablecloths and wall hangings. The Chinese symbol for happiness is a good start.
DIVINE DESIGNS:
Floriani Ultra Tearaway
Precious Kitten designs by Bonnie Landsberger.
Bonnie Landsberger, owner of Moonlight Design, sometimes gets tired of doing symmetrical corporate logos, which is why she finds inspiration in custom work that calls for a more artistic touch – specifically pets.
As an artist "who needs a break from the norm, I try different techniques on my stock designs," Landsberger says. Her favorite type of digitizing is using a manual technique to accomplish a realistic style, which is necessary when punching texture for a furry animal. "It reminds me of the freedom experienced when applying paint to canvas," she says. "It can be done using a drawing, but I find it easier to pick up details when digitizing from a clear photograph. It also helps to have several photographs of the animal at hand for reference to capture some of its personality."
Landsberger says even though digitizing pets is time-consuming and requires adhering to strict digitizing rules, "the joy of the challenge and accomplishment is artistically satisfying. I have a special place in my heart for a couple of my designs done in this artistic style, simply because I've known the animal. It's fun when you can bring pets to life in thread."
STABILIZER SECRETS:
Animal Instincts
Melanie Coakley of RNK Distributing uses the stabilizer mostly on unstructured caps. She says it has more fibers per square inch than other stabilizers and tears cleanly.
This heavyweight, 2.5-ounce stabilizer is specifically designed for high stitch counts on any type of headwear. It's made using a wet-laid, non-directional process that ensures it won't stretch, providing a secure base for all designs. It tears away cleanly and easily and won't pull or distort the stitches as the excess backing is removed. It's ideal for production situations where the stabilizer needs to be removed as quickly as possible. It comes in precut, 4-inch by 7-inch sheets in two sizes: 4 ½-inch by 200-yard rolls and 4-inch by 200-yard rolls. There are 500 sheets per package.
Melanie Coakley, division manager for RNK Distributing, the exclusive distributors of Floriani Products, says this tearaway is also "nice when you're doing dense designs on an open-weave fabric such as linen or cotton. Imagine wide satin lettering or scroll work which will pull the fabric in toward the wall of the stitching. Sometimes a cutaway is too soft and/or you don't want to trim within the open areas; this makes a nice alternative. It's stable enough to keep the fabric from pulling."
JOAN CHAYKIN is managing editor for Stitches.