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Technically Speaking:
Be a Rock Star

Adding metallic threads to your designs gives them a cool edge. These threads are susceptible to breakage, though, so first you’ve got to learn proper handling techniques.

By Deborah Jones

Source: Machine Embroidery on Difficult Materials, Krause Publications

Metallic thread comes in various sizes, colors and qualities. High-quality metallic thread is made with a meticulous manufacturing process in which the thread is constructed in layers. Looking at a cross-section of the construction, it seems nearly impossible that all of those layers are contained in a thin metallic embroidery thread.

An important component is a layer of rice paper that covers the nylon core thread and helps keep the thread pliable. An anti-oxidation coating helps assure that the thread retains its original color. High-quality metallic thread actually contains a layer of pure silver, covered by the coloring and a polyester shell. It’s easy to understand how this construction results in a fragile thread, but it can be handled much like regular thread if you stick to the following techniques.

Lesser-quality metallic thread is manufactured in almost the same way as high-quality thread, but lower-quality materials and processes are used. Aluminum metallic is used rather than silver, and the color is contained in a top coating that eventually wears off. No rice paper layer is used to provide cohesion between the nylon and the metal. So-called “paper-pasted” metallic thread is stronger and more flexible. Higher-quality metallic threads also have a protective coating over the outer metallic layer to protect against friction.

DEBORAH JONES has been involved in the computerized embroidery industry for the last 30 years. Recently, Jones has devoted much of her time to developing educational videos for embroiderers and writing the book, Machine Embroidery on Difficult Materials. Contact: djones@embroiderycoach.com.

Step 1

With a large-diameter spool, fewer kinks will form as the thread leaves the spool.

Purchase your metallic thread. Choosing an inexpensive metallic thread could be very costly in wasted time because of excessive thread breakage. In fact, an inferior thread could cost the same as or more than a high-quality metallic. Buy the highest-quality metallic thread you can find, and buy it on the largest spool size that you can afford. With a large-diameter spool, fewer kinks will form as the thread leaves the spool. Twists and kinks are one of the primary causes of thread breaks.

Here are some other things to keep in mind when buying metallic thread. Look for:
• Uniform wind on the spool. Improper winding can damage thread.
• Uniform color. A variegated appearance could indicate that the tension was too high during the winding process.
• Flat spots. This may indicate damage to the laminated construction.

Use a needle specially designed for metallic thread to minimize friction.

Step 2

Choose your needle. Because of its delicate construction, metallic thread is highly susceptible to friction. You can keep friction to a minimum by using a needle specially designed for metallic thread. For machines that use a round shank, this is a system DB x K7. The eye is larger and specially shaped to create the least resistance to the thread passing through it. For machines that use a flat shank needle, the needle will be designated as a metallic needle on its packaging.

DEBORAH JONES has been involved in the computerized embroidery industry for the last 30 years. Recently, Jones has devoted much of her time to developing educational videos for embroiderers and writing the book, Machine Embroidery on Difficult Materials. Contact: djones@embroiderycoach.com.