Jerilee Answers
Your most pressing business dilemmas solved
Q I've had several challenging embroidery jobs that deal with those so-called "embroidery-access zippers" that make me pull my hair out because of how these things are designed to get the job accomplished. Or, to be more accurate, I pull my hair out because of how these things aren't designed for successful clean-finish embroidery.
By Jerilee Auclair
Some of the zippers are meant to give access to the left-chest area, while others are supposed to give access to the entire jacket back. My customers see these things in catalogs and order the product specifically because I won't be stitching through the jacket lining, and it does seem like a win-win idea – conceptually speaking. In reality, I often have to stitch through the lining anyway because the zipper is great for getting a hoop into, but try to get that same garment on the machine, and you'll fail. Parts of the lining and jacket sneak under the hoop because of the armhole. When the zipper is in the front of the jacket it's a great idea for the left chest, but it sure doesn't work for a full back, even with the 20-inch zipper that many of the manufacturers now use.
I've only found one jacket that had the zippered opening on the bottom third of the jacket. I can pop those onto my Hoopmaster, hoop the entire back and still have plenty of room. Otherwise I'm left explaining to my customer why I can't use the zipper for the purpose it's intended and why I still have to stitch through the lining. One customer had me order absolutely gorgeous jackets because they were advertised to have these easy-access zippers. This customer had used another embroiderer previously and was disappointed when that embroiderer stitched through the lining instead of using the zipper access. Now that I've ordered the same jackets for them, I can see why the zippers weren't used. I'm breaking out in a sweat trying to make this work and am not sure I can after all. What should I do?
A While it seems most companies have finally gotten the idea that zippers need to be big enough for a 15 cm hoop (left chest), most still put them in the armhole area, which seems to defeat the purpose. The concept is a great one, but the execution of said concept is iffy at best with a good many of these so-called clean-finish embroidery-access zippered garments.
It would be great if the manufacturers would try these zippers out in everyday applications themselves. If they used the common hooping devices found in embroidery shops, they'd be able to construct the jackets with zippers in areas that are commonly embellished. They'd also be able to see the challenges faced by embroiderers, such as the lining and jacket sneaking under the hoop. A few thoughts from here include moving the left-chest access from under the arm to the front of the jacket, putting zippers at the bottom of jackets so the full back can be hooped easily with the most commonly used hooping devices, and most importantly, speaking to real embroiderers who do production to help manufacturers develop a true embroidery-access zippered garment.
For now, I'd tell customers who desire these particular garments to consider ordering only one to begin with so you both can see if the zipper works as intended for the area the customer wants embellished. This is a lot of extra work and waiting time for you and the customer alike. You might consider advising against this type of jacket/garment until you have time to fully investigate the viability of specific items. If it were me, I'd write a letter to each of the manufacturers who have the garments available, explain the situation and include possible solutions. It never works well to write with a problem but include no solution. If you give them a list of the challenges you're facing and possible ways to fix those challenges, they're more apt to listen. Yes, it'll take time and work on your part, but the investment could pay off with a product being produced that you can actually use. You'd be able to assure your customer's embroidery requests can be filled, too, which truly would be a win-win situation for all – you, the customer and the manufacturer.
I'd love to hear from manufacturers on this one. The embroidery-access zipper is a wonderful concept, but needs to function as intended for those who not only embroider the product but for those who want to wear it – those who specifically have the items ordered in by the embroiderer because of that zipper.
Manufacturers: If you provide this type of garment, please contact me at jerilee@blackeagledesigns.com. We embroiderers would love to use your products with greater ease and to offer them in greater quantity to our customers. What say you?